
Class 

Book_^ 
Copyright N"_ 



<^ I 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 



STONE'S 



ADVANCED SUPERLATIVE 



TROUSER SYSTEM 



BASED UPON 



The Proportions of the human Form 



By 

CHAS. J. STONE 

Chicago, 111. 



Giving the Correct Proportions for Forms of All Si/.es, Illustrated with Diagrams, 

Accompanied by Full Instructions for Drafting by Proportions 

and by Actual Measurements the Various Styles of 

Gentlemen's Trousers and Breeches 



Published bv 

THE CHAS. J. STONE COMPANY 

Chicago 



^ 



•-N 



\ 



^"■? 



^ x'' 



Copyright 1913 

BY THE CHAS. J. STOiNE CO. 

Chicago 



//. ^^0 



(g:i.A35S943 



Stone's .Id-i'aiiccd 
Siipriiatii'c Tronscr System 



INTRODUCTORY 



Bl'.FORE going into the details of drafting I 
will present the outline figure of the subject 
that we are going to delineate and cut a cover- 
ing for. Whether it be a coat, vest or a pair of trou- 
sers of some kind that we are going to cut. it is neces- 
sary for us first to know the shape, form and attitude 
of our man that we are going to cut the garment for. 

In plates I, II, III and I\', I present the outline fig- 
ure of the man subdivided into sections from which 
we get the proportions to work from. ( )n plate I is 
shown the front view and on plate II the back view of 
the figure. It shows the skeleton or bone structure 
with the flesh developments. It will be noted that the 
height is divided into eight parts, four parts for the 
upper part of the body and four parts for the lower 
part of the body. It will also be noted that the pelvis 
bone extends down below the half section of the height 
of the body. 

Figure III represents a normal man with its flesh 
de%'elopments seen from the side. To the left of the 
figure we have placed an upright adjustable stand that 
we raise or lower according to the height of the fig- 
ure. From the top of this stand we have placed a 
flag (as per shaded portion) back of the man's head. 
The width of the flag is according to the length of the 
man's head. The entire length of the figure from the 
sole of his feet to the crown of his head is 
here divided into eight jiarts. These divisions 
we sub-divide into eight ])arts again giving us 
64 units of the entire height. The first eighth is 
taken off for the head as indicated by the flag. The 
second eighth is from the top of neck to the depth of 
scye, giving the depth of scye front and back. Re- 
member that this division is of the height on the bare 
body, so addition for underclothing and ease must be 
made for the depth of scye. The next section is from 
the bottom of scye to the natural waist. We now 
have one-fourth of height from the top of the neck 
to the natural waist length. From the natural waist to 
the seat is another eighth of height, so from the top of 
the neck to the seat is three-eighths of height. These 
horizontal lines are all divided ofl:' from the height 
and are absolutely correct, but as the line down the 
center of the back on the figure is not on a vertical 
(straight up and down line) addition to these sections 
must be made so that the garment will come in to the 



neck out over the shoulder blades in to the waist and 
out over the hips. The fifth line strikes the middle of 
the thigh. The sixth line comes at the knee. The 
seventh line at the bottom of the calf and the eighth 
line at the sole of the feet. 

I next call your attention to Fig. I\", where we view 
the figure from the back. The stand with the flag is 
placed on the right side. The flags take the head part 
off the figure. The second eighth from the neck to 
the l)ottoni of the scye is eight units, from bottom of 
scye to waist eight units or in all 16 units of height. 
To this add ' j inch for waist length. This just look- 
ing at these pictures is interesting, but here now, get 
busy and do some figuring yourself. I am giving you 
tlie start, so now you start by getting the waist length 
for different heights, get busy and tax your brain a 
little and you will soon catch on. Next note the sec- 
tion from the waist to the seat.' eight units or one- 
eighth of height, add this to the waist length and you 
have the seat line. Now take a squint at the sleeve 
length, frcjni the breast line to the seat line is one- 
fourth of height, to this add one unit, sleeve length 
seventeen units. The length of leg is one unit and a 
half less than one-half of height, the rise of waist for 
trousers is ij^ of height plus 1 unit or l-64th of iieight. 
thus if we have the height of our client we can figure 
out all the different proportionate lengths, and from 
the breast, waist and seat measures we can figure out 
all the different sections of widths, and when we know 
what these different sections are for the normal man 
we can easily figure the disproportionate proportions 
for all the diff'erent figures, long or short, forward 
and l)ackwar(] attitudes. The figures all stand on a 
floor level or level on the floor. It's the position and 
attitude over and under the normal that the figures as- 
sume, or rather are forced into. Strong, healthy in- 
terior organs give a man an erect position or attitude. 
Weak organs force the man into a stooped position 
or attitude that we have to note, but with the knowl- 
edge of proportions and the proper divisions of heights 
and widths for our foundation the various dispropor- 
tions can easily be handled, for we can analyze the 
measures taken and easily find the disproportions our 
client is in. I will now call your attention to Dia- 
grams \' and VI for a better understanding of the di- 
vision of heights and widths for trouser cutting. 



PLATE I. 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlatk'c Troiiser Svste)n 




Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouser System 



PLATE II. 




PLATE III. 



Stone's Ad7'aiiccd 
Siipcrlatiz'C Trouscr System 




Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouser System 



PLATE IV. 




Stone's Advanced 
Snl'crlatn'c Troitscr System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE V. 



The DnisidN (if Height F(ir Trousers. 



As previousl}' stated the theory advanced hy our 
niost noted sculptors, painters, artists and professors 
of anthropology regarding the height of the human 
body and its proper division, is that the entire height, 
from the crown of the head to the end of the big toe, 
contains eight faces or heads, and on this theory they 
divide the human form into eight faces or heads. The 
distance from the bottom of the heel to the end of the 
toe is estimated to be 1-22 of the entire height. 'I'hey 
also claim that the proper way to measure for height 
is to have the subject in a lying-down jiosition with 
feet stretched out, or if in a standing position it must 
be on tip toe. This theory is undoubtedly correct if 
we want to find the correct length of the face, but to 
tailors this is of less importance. What we want is 
the division of the parts of the body that we are re- 
,|uired to cover, and it matters not if the face of our 
client is one-sixteenth of an inch longer or shorter, and 
while the ilistance from the crown of the head to bot- 
tom of heel does not contain eight times the length of 
the face, vet I find in my practice that this distance 
can be correctly divide.l into eight parts and each of 
these iwrts subdivided into eighths, giving us si.xty- 
four parts or units for height, and on this theory the 
accompanying diagram of the human figure is divided : 

From the crown of the head to the pelvis bone, line 
F \', where the legs join the trunk of the body, is half 
of the entire height. 



From I-~ to J is 'j the distance from F to M. or '4 
of entire height, and \' to X is ' s of entire height. 

\' to e' is l-(if of entire height. This distance will 
\ary according to flesh development, in a le.iii mm 
it will be a little less and in a flesh v man more. The 
in-seam will therefore be for a lean man not cpiite 
1-64 less than i _. of height, and for a fleshy man as 
much as 2-(i4 less than ' _. of height. For a cutter to 
fully understand this \ariation, it is necessary for him 
to understand the laws of form growth. 

The rise of the waist is ' ,s and l-(i4 of height, and 
to this may be added ' _. inch, or according to the fancy 
of the wearer, b'or a lean man whatexer has been 
gaine<l in leg length must be deducted from the rise 
rmd in the fleshy man what has lieen lost in the length 
of the leg must be added to the rise, according to fleshy 
and muscular developments. 

C to 1) is I J seat on dix'ision. and D to F is '-g seat. 

.\ is halfway between C and F. Square u]i from A 
to S : this line is the center of the thigh. 

Now, if we locate the center of the foot or ankle, it 
will be found tint point B is not a straight line with 
.\ .S, therefore it '•• necessary to swing in the center 
line ;it the foot. The reader will ask how much? This 
deiiends on the size of the trouser legs. If they be 
small, the center must be swamg in more, and if wide, 
less. I'or the present style of trousers, IS'j to 19 
knee and 16' _> to 17 bottom, I swing the center line 
in at bottom 1-16 of the seat measure. 



Stone's Advanced 
Supoiath'c Troiiscr System 



PLATE V. 




12 



Stonr's . Idz'a/iccd 
Siipcihiti^'i' Iroiiscr Syslciii 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE VI. 



The DnisidN uf Width Fur Trousers. 



In drafting I use half of seat measure. This I 
divide into eighths. 

From A to ['> is four-eigiiths. whicli e(|uals 'j, and 
from B to C is one-eighth. 

B to 7 is Vs seat, which locates the beginning of the 
riiunding of the lower portion of the trunk of the 
hody. 

The center of the thigh D is half-way between A 
and C. .'^(luare up from D to E. 

The center line at 1'" should be swung in l-ld of 
seat, then divide the furepart equally on lioth .sides of 
the center. 

( In ilrafting, the forepart is re\ ersed from what it 
appears in this di.igram, which is leftdian<led, so as to 
show the shape uf the stride and its dixisions. ) 

The forepart is cut out and laid on backpart so that 
the center lines meet. 1 to 5 is 4-S, the same as the 
forepart. .^ tn (< is Is. and 6 to C is 1-12, making the 
distance from 1'. to -t, '4 and 1-12 seat, which eijuals 
3/j seat on division. 

Periiendicnlar line \V. it will be noted, is on a |)lumb 



line from the shoulder blade. The seat will extend 
o\er this line, and the first impression that the reader 
will get by looking at the diagram und(iubte<lly will be 
that the seat line of the trousers should run with the 
shape of the l)ody ; but on second thought he undoubt- 
edly will understand that when the back is turned 
around, it will come in a different position. 

U to V is 1-16 waist and \' to Y is j ,, of the entire 
height (.1 inches in all sizes may be used successfully.) 
If the indentation ciiuld be successfully taken and ap- 
plied. W to \" should then be 'j inch more than W to 
X. 1 to 8 is 1'4 inch for make-up and seams. 

'Idic width of the legs is e(]nally <livi(led on both 
sides of the center line. The seat should measure 16 
seat and 1 1 _. inch added for seams. The waist J 2 of 
waist measure and 1 inch for seams, and if a V is 
taken out add 1 ' _• inches for seams. 

Note. — All these divisions of the form are net meas- 
urement. .Additions for seams and ease must be add- 
ed when drafting the patterns, as ex[)lained in my 
system of drafting. 



Stone's Advanced 
Siiperhitive Trouser System 



13 



PLATE VI. 




14 



Stone's Adz'anccd 
Sii/^crhitk'c Tronscr System 



THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF 
TROUSER CUTTING. 

PLATES VII, VIII. AND IX 



If we take the whole circiiiuference measure of the 
seat it win, of course, (see Pl;ite \'Ii), lake 
iu the two thighs, and if the twn let;s are set 
ch.)se together on tlie trunk of the liody the 
seat nieasui"e will gi\e the proper size for the 
thighs. If we take one- fourth of the seat meas- 
ure (half on division) it will reach as from C through 
B to H. If we sweep down from C to L we have the 
width of the forepart as from L to 11. If we sweep 
from II to G the measure B to H will reach to (i. and 
it will require another ' s seat from G to A. 

The circumference around the two legs simply illus- 
trates the two thiglis. If these two thighs are set on 
the body, as per illustration in Plate VIII, it would 
seem at tirst glance that the application of the seat 
measure would be too large for the thighs, but such is 
not the case, for although the seat measure is used to 
get the size of the legs, yet it requires 1-12 of seat ex- 
tra in the back stride, as from K to A, in order to give 
the proper amount of goods .around the thighs. Une- 
half of seat measure. 18 inches, and ' .; of IS, wdiich 
is (j inches, added t(( IS, makes the thigh 24 inches; 
this includes allowance for seams and ease. Ihe ac- 
tual size of the thigh in a ntirmal figure is S,s nf the 
seat measure, which. f(ir a Mi seat, will he 21' j inches; 
for a 40 seat 2.^ inches, and a 40 seat 2S ^ j inches. 
These proportions h(4d good only in ynung men and 
athletes. The middle aged as well as old men who ilo 
not get any exercise to strengthen the muscular de- 
velopment of the thighs fall lielow this standard, and 
it is here where the cutter will have to use an extra 
thigh measure, and in drafting compromise ;ind use 
the difference i)f the actual and proportionate thigh. 
The small thigh and flat seated figure perhaps is the 
hardest of all forms to cut trousers for- Plate IX 
illustrates this form where the two legs are set apart on 
the body, leaving a si)ace of from one to two inches 
between the legs, as from 1 to 2. In this form the 
thighs nuist be reduced on the inside so as to give a 
curve on both the front and hack part, as from T to 
S ; be sure to reduce the thigh on the inside with a 
short, sharj) cur\e, if you want the inseam to hang 
straight. Some cutters itnagine that liy cutting a 
straight inseam for all sbajies the tronscr leg will hang 
straight, but this is an illusion, and sooner or later the 
cutter will discover th;it in this particular case the in 
seam must ha\e a short curve just below the crotch in 
order to get the trouser up and set smoothly in the 
fork and hang straight in the legs. 



PLATE VII. 






Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouser System 



15 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE X. 

TO DRAFT THE FOREPART FROM PROPORTIONS. 



These are the fundamental principles on which this 
system is based, "the proportions of the human form," 
and by first studying the anatomical divisions of the 
form that we have to cut a covcrinij for. we will have 




a better knowledge of the system employed in draft- 
ing. The cutter will know the whys and wherefores 
of all the ditierent di\-isions used in drafting. We 
must first know the proportions before we can find 
what the disproportions are. 

Seat ,16 I Waist 31 

Height, -^ feet 8 inches (68 inches). 

TO DRAFT. 

A to L is ig plus 1-64 of height. 

L to C is jA height less Ij j units. 

L to G is }i ofi seat. 

M is halfway between G and C. 

( i tn 1 is I s of seal and 1 to I is fg of seat, making 

the distance from Li to I is 4-8 of ^2 seat on 

division. 
\\j to j is yi seat on division. 
S(|uare up and down lines 1, 2, 3 and I. 
L to J is 5^ of seat, which is one-half of thigh measure, 

and K is halfway between L and J. 
Square up from K through Y and T. 
As center line K is halfway between 2 and 3, it is 1-16 

seat from K to 3, s(j bv swinging in center line 1-16 

at Ivottom it will strike on line U 3. 
Appl\- knee measure ' _> of knee each way from P, and 

Ixittnm lueasure V4 inch les.s than '_> of Ijottom 

measure each way from U. 

Now if ' _. of the seat measure will cover '4 of the 
thigh, ',i of this amount will be the correct quantity 
to co\er the remaining '4 of thigh. So if in a M) 
seat measure 18 inches will co\er the three sides of 
thigh, li of 18. or 6 inches, is the correct amount of 
front and back stride. Now. then, if we use '^ seat, 
which is 2 '4 inches, for the front fork, we must add 
the remainder for the back fork, as follows: J^ '"^nfl 
1-12 seat, making the stride '4 and 1-12 seat, which is 
e(|ual to y^ seat on division. 

The single thigh measure averages one-half inch less 
than five-eighths of the seat measure. Men with heavy 
developed muscles will measure a trifle more, and 
scantily developed forms with open tliighs will meas- 
ure less than the normal figure. The following table 
of thigh is five-eighths of the seat measure. If the 
thigh is measured moderate close, not tight, the thigh 
will measure 'i inch less than given on the following 
table: 

Seat 



Seat 

34 
3? 
36 
?:7 
38 
39 
40 
41 



Thi,jli 

2oy» 

21/4 
21% 

23 m; 
23 .)4 
243/^ 
25 
255/^ 



42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 



Tluqh 
26 '4 
26?^ 
27>4 
28/s 
28^4 
29% 
30 
30?^ 
31M 



16 



Stoiii-'s .Idraiiccd 
Snpciiath'c Trouscr System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XL 



Ff)L'NnATIC)N DkAFT. 



The acL-unipanying <lraft is t\ir a nurnial figure. 
The (Ir.ift is made fnim ihe following measurements: 

Outside seam -W/z Seat 39 

Inseam 32 Knee 19 

Waist 34 ' L'.utLoni l''."2 

To DRAFT. 

Square out and down from .\. 

A to r. is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches al)o\ e half the distance from l'. to C. 

C to L is \i seat; S(|uare lines L. C. D and P.. 

C to E is ; J seat and K to F is > s seat. 

G is halfway hetwecn (.' and F. 

C to 1.^. \? to 1(> and 1(1 to 17 is 's ■'^eat, thus dividing 

the forepart into eighths of the seat measure. 
The center Inie <i being in the center of points Id and 

17, the distance from C to 17 is 1-1() seat, therefore 

the center hue should he moved in l-lo seat at hot- 

toni as from point 40 to M. 
Point 40 is opposite point ( 1. 
E to I is i{, inch for dress and F to T and F to U is Y& 

inch for dress. 
N to () and N to P is \\ knee measure. 
M to Q and M to R is '4 inch less than ,'4 of the 

width of l)ottom. 
1 to K is ' 2 waist ( 17 on halves). 
C to 1 is .\s inch; lengthen outside at (J ' _\ the amount 

that ff.irepart has heen swung in from 40 to M and 

shape forepart as represented. 

TIIF. liACKI'ART. 

E.xtend lines from 1 1 to X and V to W. 

H to X is .1 inches or ,i-(i4 of entire height of client. 

S is halfway hetween lines E and L 

Draw seat line from S through \'. 

7 is halfway hetween X and W. 

Ajiplv waist measure from J to K; place this at 7 and 
mea.sure l)ack to 10, half of waist and 2' 4 inches 
for seams and V( incli \' taken out as from S to 9. 

Apply seat measure from S, line 1'^ to P, place this on 
seat line 31, which point is tg seat up from S, and 
measure out to 'S', half of seat measure and 1 J 2 
inches for seams and ease. 

1 to 2 is 1-16 seat. 

F to Z is 1-12 seat. 

P to 3 and O to 4 is J/j inch. 

Q to 5 and R to 6 is ->4 inch. 



PLATE XL 




Stoiii-'s .l(kwici-d 
Siipcrlatiz'r Troiiscr System 



17 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XII. 



Normal trousers from the following measurements : 



PLATE XII. 



Rise 9y2 

Leg 32 

Waist 35 

Seat 40 



Thigh 24 

Knee 19>i 

Bottom 16j/2 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is rise. 9^/ inches. 

B to C is length of inseam. 

D is 2 inches above half tiic distance B to C. 

B to Q is i/^ seat. 

Square lines Q, B, D, C. 

B to E is ^ seat and E to F is l^. 

tj is halfway between B and F. 

F to 1 and F to 2 is -'.s inch. 

C to IT is the same as B to (1. 

ii to [ is 1-16 seat. 

1 l(j j and I to K is V4 bottom measure. 

I. to M and L to N is ^ of knee measure. 

2 to 3 is ' J of thigh measure. 
E to O is ^2 inch. 

Draw a line from P to F. 
\' is halfway between R and S. 
\' to U is I 2 of waist measure. 
T to U is '4 inch. 

THE BACKP.^RT. 

X to Y is 2 inches. 
Y to Z is 1-16 waist. 
Z to 9 is 1 inch, 
y to 7 is 1'4 inches. 

I to l? is '4 inch more th:in 1-12 se;it. 

3 to 8 is 1-12 seat. 

Point 4 is }i inch back of P. 

P to 3 is ]i seat. 

Apply seat measure from P to Q, place this amount at 

6 and come out to 7 one-half of seat measure plus 

lyi inches. 
9 to 12 is half waist and 2 inches. 
12 to 11 is % waist. 
Draw a line from 11 to point G. 

II to 10 is A4 of an inch \'. 

M to 16 and N to 17 is 'j inch. 
K to 18 and J to 19 is ' j inch. 
The waistband is 1'4 inches. 
Shape as represented. 




18 



Stone's .'idToiiced 
Siif^crhUn'r Trouscr System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIIL 



The acconiiiaming diagram is for a man with hirge 
hips and small waist. Tlie draft is made frum the 
f(;Il(iwint,' measurements : 

Rise 9 Hip 40 

Leg M', Thigh 23 

Waist 32 Knee 19 

Bottom 16 

TO DKAKT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to C is rise of waist. 

C to B is length of leg. 

1) is 2 inches ahnxe h,df the distance hetween B to C. 

C to E is I J seat. 

K to F" is Vs seat. 

(! is halfway hetween C and I'. 

S(|uare up from (i for L. 

1' to C is one-half (if thigh measure. 

B to II is the same as T to ( '.. 

11 to I IS ]-](. hip. 

l)raw center hue finm (i to p(jint I. 

1 to I and 1 to K i> ' , hottom. 

Al to X and M to ( > is ' _. knee measure. 

1" til 1' and h" to (J is .'s inch. 

\-. to R is I _. inch. 

."^([U [re up lines h". and R. 

I'oint 1 is half\\a\- hetween \' and S. 

1 to 2 is ■ _. waist. 

2 to ,1 is '.s inch. 

Tale out dress as shown liv dotted line from S 

through U to P. 
1 his completes the forepart. 

riii: i'..\cKr'.\RT. 
The had part is drafted l)\- la\ing the forepart on 
the paper and S(|U iring nut all the dilTerent lines. 
O to 13 is 1-12 seat. 
13 to 14 is one seam. 
L to Y is 2 inches. 

Y to Z is 1 inch. 

V to 4 is 1-16 waist. 

Draw a line from 4 to '4 inch hack at point U. 

Shape from U dmvn through (J out to 14. 

T to 11 is l-U. 

7. to 12 is PS. 

Aiijilv waist measure from S to 3, place this at 4, and 

measure hack to 10 one-half of waist plus 2' 2 

inches. 
10 to 9 is ' ,-, waist. 
Draw a line from 9 for point G. 
Take out a 1 incli \' as from 6 to 7. 
Shaiie as represented. 



PLATE XIIL 




Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Troiiser System 



19 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIV. 



MEDIUM PEG-TOP TROUSERS. 



The draft is made from the following measure- 
ments : 

Outside 41 Seat 39 

Inside 32 Knee 21 

Waist 34 Bottom 16>^ 

TO DR.\FT. 
THE FOREP.\RT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

3 is 2 inches above half the distance between B and C. 

C to S is J^ seat. 

Square lines S, C, 3 and B. 

C to D is y2. and D to E is 34 seat. 

E to J is ^ and E to K is ^ inch. 

D to L is J^ inch. 

Square up line D and L and square down from K for 

Q and M. 
M to N is J/2 inch less than half of bottom measure. 
Draw a straight line from N to 1 ' _. inch out from S. 

5 to T is 1 inch. 
I to U is I4 inch. 

H to U is 12 of waist. 

U to V and H to \\' is 1'4 inches for waistband. 

F is halfway between C and E. 

Square up from F for point G. 

O is half-way between M and N. 

Draw a line from O to F. 

THE B.^CKPART. 

G to 6 is 2 inches. 

6 to 7 is 1-16 waist. 

7 to 8 is 1 inch. 

X is "^ inch back of line D. 

J to 5 is 3^ inch more than 1-12 seat. 

Q to 4 is ^ inch. 

M to I is % inch. 

N to 2 is ^ inch. 

R to 3 is 1 inch. 

T to 14 is 1^ inches. 

Apply waist measure from H to U. Place tliis amount 

at 7 and come out to 9, half the waist measure and 2 

inches. 
10 to 11 is I/, inch. 

9 to 13 is 1'4 inch, and 8 to 15 is 1 inch. 
Shape as represented. 




20 



Stone's .\dvaiiccd 
Siij^crlativc Triiiiscr Systrin 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XV. 



TROUSERS. 

.Stout Figure. 



The draft is made from the fuUuwini; measure- Whatever has been gained from S to Y advance stride 

"i*^"'* • same amount from F to Z and reduce same amount 

Rise 10'/, Thigh 2t. ^''O'" R to 1. 

Inseam 32 Knee 21 ■ . ^PP'.V ' -' o^ tiiigh measure from F to 3. 

Waist 44 Bottom 17 



Seat 



.44 



S(|uare out and down from A. 

.\ to I'! is rise. 

E) to t' is inside k-ngtli. 

1) is 2 inches ahow half the <hstance fmm I! to (' 

B to R is ' ,s seal. 

-Square lines R. M. 1). 

B to F is > J seat. 

E to F is i.s seat. 

i'l is halfway hetween !> an<l Z. 

Square up from (i for point U an<l down for II. 

H to I is \-U, seat. 

I to J and I to K is '4 bottom measure. 

L to X and L to M is ' 4 knee measure. 

F to ( ) is '_, inch. 

S([uare up lines h" and ( ). 

U to W and U to X is '4 waist. 

S(|uare down from W to point T. 

W to T is I ,i I he distance from P to O. 

Draw a line from T to ( ). 



Raise front from I' to \' the same amount that there 

is from P to W. 
Point F ha\ ing been advanced to point Z 3/^ of an 

inch, the distance from Z to F will be -'j^ of an inch 

and from Z to 2, 's of an inch. 

TliE I;.\CKP.^RT. 

U to .^ is 2 inches. 

.^ to () is l-ld waist. 

6 til 7 is 1 inch. 

Point 4 is ' 1 nich back of line E. 

2 to 11 is 'j incli more tiian 1-12 seat. 
11 to 12 is '4 inch. 

4 to 17 is i.s seat. 

1 to 9 is 1.'4 inches. 

Measure uji tiie seat by measuring frtmi .S to 1, 

place this amount at IS and come hack to Q one-half 

of seat measure plus 1 ' _> inches. 

3 to 10 is I 4 inch less than 1-12 seat. 
N to 14 and .M to 13 is ' _, inch. 

J to I.s and K to Pi is 1 _, inch. 

The wddtli of waistband is 1'4 inches. 

Shape as represented. 



Stone'.' .Idvanccd 
SupnLitirc 'Frouscr System 



21 



PLATE XV. 




22 



Sto)ic's Advanced 
Snpcrlath'c Trouscr System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVI. 



Trousers for a corpulent figure from tlie following 
measures ; 

Outside 46 Seat 58 

Inside 32 Thigh 34 

Waist 60 Knee 25 

Abdomen 61 Bottom 19 

TO DRAFT. 
THE FOREPART. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is rise, 14 inches. 

B to C is inseam, 32 inches. 

D is 2 inches above half the distance between B to C. 

B to Z is >^ seat. 

Square lines Z, B, C and D- 

B to E is 1/ and E to F is 's seat. 

E to P is 14 inch. 

G is halfway between P. and F. 

Square up lines G, E and P. 

Square down from (i for I. 

I to J is 1-16 seat. 

Draw a line from (i to I. 

K to L and K to M is ' 4 knee measure. 

J to O and J to N is '4 bottom measure. 

H to T and H to S is '4 waist. 

Square down from T to U. 

T to U is 1/3 the distance from P to R. 

Draw a line from P to U. 

Whatever distance is from Q to V, ad\ance same 

atnount' from F to X and take off from Z to 2 same 

amount. 



From T to W is the same as from R to T. 

X to F and X to Y is -'s inch. 

F to 18 is ' j of thigh measure. 

Raise waist 3g inch as from S to 1 and shape outside 

from 1 through 2, 18 and M to N. 
Shape inside from Y through 2i< and L t(j (J. 
Draw a line from V to X and shape front from W 

through T and U through 3 to Y. 

V to 3 is f^ inch. 

THE BACKl'ART. 

Cut out forepart and place same on drafting paper and 

extend lines in usual manner. 
H to 13 is 3 inches. 
13 to 14 is 1-16 waist. 
Draw seat line from 14 through 11 and Y out to 10. 

Y to 10 is ^ inch more than 1-12 seat. 
9 to 10 is the same as L to Y. 

I to 9 i\m\ M to 8 is 1 _. inch. 
( ) to 6 and N to 7 is ' j inch, 

II to 12 is >'^ seat. 

Apply seat measure from ij to 2. place this at 15 and 

come back to 16 one-half of seat plus I'j inches. 
Line 20 is ! s seat down from T. 
Measure forepart from 20 to 21, place this amount at 

22 and come back to 23 one-half of abdomen plus 

1 inch. 
Apply waist from W to 1. place this at 14, come back 

to 24 one-half of waist measure plus 1 inch for 

seams. 
The height of the waist band averages 1'4 inches. 



Stone's Advanced 
Supciiath'e Trouser System 



23 



PLATE XVI. 




24 



Stone's Ad^'anccd 
Supciiath'c 'I'rauscr S\strin 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVIL 



For a Bow-leg Figure. 



The draft is made from tlie fcillciwing measure- 
ments : 

Outside 42 Seat 40 

Inside i2 Thigh 24 

Waist 36 Knee 19' S 

I'.ottom 17 

In takin.i; the liow of the legs, have tlie client put 
his two feet, heels and toes together, then measure 
distance hetvveen the knees. This may he dcme b\' 
inserting one, two or three lingers. In this case the 
opening is three fingers or 1^ _, inches. 

TO OR.XFT. 

Square out and down from .-X. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above half the distance from B to C. 

C to R is ' ,s seat. 

Square lines R, C, D and B. 

C to E is ^ seat. 

F to F is ' 1^ seat. 

F to J and F to K is ^s inch. 

C, is halfway lietween (.' and F. 

Square up and ddwn from ( i. 

E to M is I J inch. 

Square up from F ami M. 

The thi.gh measure heing less than ivirnial and thigh 

is hiillow on the inside, apply 'j of thi.gh me 

from C to I and draw a strai,ght line from I to 
P(jint P is Yi, inch frcmi < >. 
P to Q is I J waist. 
O to S is '4 inch. 

T to U and T to V is '4 knee measure. 
II to W and H to X is '4 bottom measure. 
X to Y is ' J inch. 
These kind of figures usually ha\e a hollow tbi; 

the inside, hence I go back from J to T, '4 

and draw a line from I to V. 



isure 



inch, 



The dress is per diitted line from P through X to j, 
running down to puint J. 

THE B.\CK1'ART. 

L to 1 is 2 inches. 

1 to 2 is 1-16 waist. 

2 ti\ ,1 is 1 inch. 

N ti] y is ' 4 inch. 

k 1(1 12 is '4 inch mure than 1-12 seat. 

K 1(1 10 is l.i4 inches. 

N til 7 is ' ,s seat. 

.^(|uare acri>ss for pdint S. apply seat measure from 

9 to R, place this at S and coiue out to 10. cme-half 

of seat measure plus 1 ' _> inches for seam and ease. 
C to 11 is 1-12 seat. 
.Vp])ly waist measure froiu P to .S, place this at 3 and 

come bads to 4; one-half r)f waist, plus 2 inches for 

seams ancl a "\'." 4 to .^ is ' ,, waist. 
.T tn (! is 54 (if an inch. 
F(ir bow-legs swing liaclspart in 2^^ inches from 11 

t(i 20 and draw a line fidm 20 to (1. which locates 

the center (if the backpart. 
21 til 14 and 21 to 1,^ is ' _> inch more than '4 knee 

measure. 
20 to Id and 20 til IS is ' _. inch more than '4 of bottom 

measure. 
IN til 17 is 1 I4 inches. 
Draw a line from 14 to 17, then swing out the inseam 

from 17 to IS. 
Dr.iw a straight line from I.t to Id and add -s of an 

inch o\er the calf of the leg at 23 and reduce '4 

inch at the ankle, point 22. 
Be sure and keep the knee notches e\en as shown in 

diagram. The outside of both the backpart and 

forepart has been lengthened to allow extra length 

ii\er the bow of the leg on the outside. In cutting 

the cloth hold the center lines straight on the goods. 

The waistband is usually 1 inch wide. 



Stoiir's .hiz'aiiccd 
.MZ/rr/d/iTT 1 roiiscr Syslcin 



25 



PLATE XVII. 




26 



Stone's .Adi'aiiccd 
Siiperlati7'c Trouscr System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVIIL 



For a Flat-Seated Ficure With Calves Projecting Ott In the Back. 



The draft is made from the following measure- 
ments ; 



Outside 4132 Seat . . 

Inside 32 Thigh . 

Waist 34 Knee . 

Bottom 



.38 

.19 
.16' 



T(i PRAFT. 

Square out ami down from A. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above half the distance from B to C. 

C to E is i/^ seat. 

E to F is J/^ seat. 

F to M and F to J is ^/s inch. 

Apply one-half thigh measure from C for point K, and 

draw a line from K to VV and hollow forepart as at 

point 9. 
(] is halfway between C and F. 
Square up from (i to T. 
B to H is the same as C to G. 
H to I is 1-16 seat. 

Draw center line from I to G, locating point V. 
C to N is M seat. 
Square across for point ( >. P. 
E to L is ^ inch. 
F to J and F to M is ■'« inch. 
V to W and V to X is '4 knee measure. 
I to Y and I to Z is '4 bottom measure. 
This tv])e of figure having a hollow inside thigh or 

open thigh, as it is called, go back from J to K, ;^8 

inch, and draw a straight line from K to W. 
R is 14 inch in from Q. 
R to S is J4 waist. 
S to U is ;4 inch. 



Draw a straight line from X to N and add fully J4 

inch as at point C and 11. 
The forepart for this type of form should be pressed 

in over the outside hip as from 11 to S. 

THE BACKPART. 

T to 1 is 2 inches and 1 to 2 is 1-16 waist. 

(J to 3 is ' J inch. 

M to S is 1-12 seat and 8 to 7 is the usual '4 inch, but 

wlien the seat is straightened as from ( ) to 3, I also 

reduce jioint the same amount from 7 to 8. 
\' to 1.? ;in(l \' to 14 is 'j inch more than '4 knee. 
I to 1.^ and [ to 16 is ' _. inch more than '4 bottom. 
() to 4 is I s seat. 
Square Ijack from 4 for iioint .^. 
Apply seat measure from < ) to N, place this at 5 and 

come back to 6 one-half of seat plus I'j inches for 

seams and make-up. 
-A.pply waist measure frcjm R to U, ])lace this at point 

2f) and come l)ack at 21. ' _. of waist and 2 inches for 

seams an<l a \'. 

21 to 22 is '„ of waist. 

22 to 23 is i_; inch. 

Notch forepart and liack as at 11 and 12, and 9 and 10. 

12 to 21 is Yg, inch shorter than 11 to U 

Notches 13 and 14 on the backpart are moved up ^ 
inch from the notches on the forepart, so that the 
backpart may be stretched as from 12 to 13 and 
10 to 14. 

E.xtra width of calf is added to the backpart at point 
1'^ and 20, and the fore]iarts are shrunk in so that 
the notches will meet. The forepart must be shrunk 
in well from 17 to 18 and the backpart shrunk in 
well from 24 to 2?. 

Point 26) is 1 inch u]) from 2, 

The waistband is usually 1 inch wide. 

Note. — In making trousers for this form use shaper 

C, on page 42. 



Stone's Advanced 
Siil>C)lativc Troiiscr System 



27 




Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Troiiser System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIX. 



SPRING BOTTOM PANTS. 



The accompanying diagram is that of a regular old- 
fasliioned spring hottoni pants. Tiu- (h'aft is made 
friini the following measurements: 



Outside 43 

Inside 33 

Waist 34 

Seat 39 



Thigh . 
Knee . 
Calf .. 
Ankle . 
Bottom 



TO DRAFT. 

S(juare out and down from A. 

A to B is outside, ami B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above half the distance from B to C. 

C to T is ;<i seat. 

Square lines T, C, I) and B. 

C to E is l', and V. to F is 'g seat. 

F to I and F to J is 's inch. 

E to P is y2 inch. 

G is halfway between C and F. 

B to K is the same as C to G. K to L is 1-16 seat. 

Square from G through H to X and draw a line from 

G to L. 
L to ( ) is 4 inches and M to N is 4' j inches. 
Square across from O to N. 
Lengthen outside of forepart from 4 to 9, '4 distance 

from K to L. 
M to 1 and M to 2 is '4 knee ( 16 '4 on fourths). 
( )n spring bottom pants I always make the widths on 

the forepart at the bottom 1 inch less than at the 

knee. 
In this case L to 3 and L to 4 is 14i _. on fourths. 
Q to R is 54 waist. 
Shape forepart as represented by broken lines. 



The easiest way to obtain the correct width of trousers 

at knee and bottom is to add the amount desired for 

seams ( in this case 1 inch ) to the actual measure 

and apply it in the following manner: 
Then place liottom of S(|uare at 1 ami measure out to 

IS ( 1/1 _. inches on liahcs ). 
Place end of square at |)oint 2 and measure out to 19 

( 1/1 J on halves ). 
Then place bottom of s(|uare at 3 and measure out to 

11 (23 on halves). 
Then from 4 to 10 (23 on halves). 
5 to 14 and 6 to l.s is l(ii j on halves. 
7 to 17 ;md S to 1() is IS on halves. 
( )wing to the extra lengtli gaincil liy the spring at the 

])ottom, the baclqiart is to be shortened -/s inch as 

from 10 to 13 and 11 to 12. 
F to U is 1-12 seat. 
T to W is 1 ■>4 inches. 
E to S is ' x seat and point S is halfway between lines 

F and P. 
19 to 2') is I 4 inch less th:ui 1 to J. 
li to X is 3 inches. 
X to A' is 1-1() waist. 
Hollow backpart '4 inch as at 27. 
18 to Z is '4 inch less than 2 to R. 
Apply waist measure froni (J to R. 
Place this at 27 and measure out to Z, ' ., waist and 

2' 4 inches for se:nns and '4 inch \' taken out be- 
tween 21 and 22. 
S to V is 34 seat. 
Apply seat measure from S to T, place this amount 

at V and measure out to W. ij of the seat and 1^2 

inches added for scams and ease. 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouscr System 



29 



PLATE XIX. 




30 



Stone's Adi'iuiccd 
Supcrlaik'c Tronscr Sxstcm 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XX. 



TENNIS TROUSERS. 

\ViTH A Perm.a.nent Turn-up. 



Tliese kinds of trousers are usually made of a 
striped flannel, and gentlemen wearing them often ob- 
ject to the run of the stripes in the back, and by prac- 
tice we ha\e found that the seat seam may be cut 
straight with the stripe, and an extra large "\"' taken 
out in the backpart. The accompanying draft is made 
from the following nie.'isurements : 

Outside 41 Seat 39 

Inside 32 Knee 19' i 

Waist 34 I'.ottdm 17 



TO DK.\FT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above half the distance from P. t 

C to T is \i seat. 

.Square lines T, C, D and B. 

C to li is ■ 2 seat. 

E ta F is y^. 

(i is halfwa\- between C and F. 

."^((uare uj) fr(jm 1 1. 

H to 11 is the same as C to G. 

Draw line from (i to 11. 

H to L is 1-16 seat. 

Draw center line from 1, to (1 for points N am 

Trousers with a permanent turn-up must be 
least 1 inch shorter, hence shorten the leg 
as from L to M and S(|uare across both way; 
M by center line M N. 



I M. 
cut at 
1 inch 
; from 



M to K and M to Q is '4 of bottom measure. 

Square down from R and Q. 

X to ( ) and N to P is '4 of knee measure. 

I" to I and V to j is j,s incli. 

P to K is ■ _> inch. 

.Square u]) lines V. and K. 

\' to W is ',2 waist. 

S to X is ]A inch. 

THE B.\CKP..\RT. 

S(iuarc U]i from X for ])oints 4. ^' and Z. 

Y to 7. is 3' J inches. 

X to 19 is 1 inch more than '4 waist. 

19 to 21 is 'k waist. 

21 to 22 is I 4 waist. 

19 to 20 is 1 inch less than ',5 seat. 

I to 1 is 1-12 seat. 

1 to 2 is '.s inch. 

S to 3 is the same as ( ) to 1. 

( ) to S and r^ to 7 is > _, inch. 

O to 9 and R to 10 is ■ j inch. 

S<|uare down from 9 and 10 for points 11, 12. 13. and 
14, 1,^ and P.. 

10 to 11 and 11 to 12 is Dj inches or whate\-er turn- 
up is desired. 

12 to 13 is usually 1'4 inches for turn-under. 

Appl\' seat measure from .S to T and from 4 to ,^. 
' J of seat and 1^/4 inclies. 

From forepart at C to 6 is 1-12 seat. 

Shape as represented. 



Stone's .Idz'anccd 
Siipcrlatk'c Troiiscr Systrin 



31 



PLATE XX. 




Stone's .-idz'iiiiccd 
Siil^crliiti-rr Trdusrr System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXL 



GOLF BREECHES. 

Tilt' draft is iiKuk- tr(jni the folic iwiii.t; measure- the iiACKrAKT. 

nients ; I, to 1 is 2 inclies. 

Rise 9 Seat .« 1 tn 2 is P4 inches. 

T a \2 Fn • ■ '0 ^ '^" '*' ''^ ^^^'' ^^''''^f- 

W^ist . ^' ! ^ ^' ..'.'..' ' .' ^33 Small .,f leg 14 ^^I'l''.^ ^^••''^' measure frnni 1' to (J. place this at 3, and 

ciiine hack to 4. (ine-half of waisi ami 1^ ^ inches. 

4 to .=^ is ',, waist. 
TO liR.VFT. - . , . 

.s to () IS ■>4 men. 
Square out and down from A. ^ to 7 is 2 inches, 

.\ to R is rise. ^ to S is 1 1 , inches. 

B to C is ■ , of the regular leg. 16 inches. •'^ to C" is ' _, hich. 



C to D is 3 indies. 



R to 13 is ' , inch. 



B to () is Is seat. '^' t" 1-^ '^ '4 inch. 

B to E is I, seat. \^' t" '- '^ '4 inch. 

E to E is Vk ■' t'' '' '"^ '4 '"'^''' iii'Tc than 1-12 seat. 

G is halfway hetween B and F. '^ to 10 is the same as R to J. 

Square uj) and down from ( ;. "i*^' f"'"'-'l';ii"t in front at hottom is lengthened .^s inch 

E to K is '1 inch '""' ''"-' '''ick]>art is shortened in the middle \s inch. 

Square up lines I'" and K. -"^ hand al)out 1 inch wide is put at the hottom, and 

P to ( ) is ' . waist. the front and hack are felled on to this h.ind and 

B to X is .>4 and ( ) to Y is ' \ inch. finished as shown on a little cut in middle (if dr:Lft. 

M to K and M to S is '4 knee. There is an opening on the outside as from ."^ to \', 

H to T and TI to U is '4 the size of the small of leg. and the haii.l is fastened together with a hutton or 

U to \' and 'T to W is ' | of an inch fullness. huckle. 

F to 1 and F to j is -'.s inch. . Shape as represented. 



Stfliic'j Advanced 
Supciiatirc Troiiscr System 



33 



PLATE XXI. 




1416 



34 Stone's Ad^'Giiccd 

Suftvlatri't' Troiiscr System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIL 



RIDING BREECHES. 

Ih' I'Kdl'l.mXKlN.S. 

Many cutters are puzzled how to proceed when cut- H to I is 's seat. Square down for Q. 

ting Riding Breeches from tlic ordinary measures, so The small of knee in this case is I'j inches more than 

here is a formula how to proceed. The length of the ' ,, .seat, or say 14 inches. 

le<' to the knee is onedialf of the leg for ordinary The calf will he 14' _> or '_. inch more than the small of 

trousers. The full length of inseam to the ankle aver- leg. 

ages 4 inches less than full length of leg for regular The ankle will average 10 inches on these short legs. 

trousers. The width of the small of the leg helow the Draw a line from K through O. 

knee averages 1 ' _. inches more than ' .i of seat. 'l"hc 1 .^ in X and R to W is 1 '4 inches. 

calf averages 2 inches more than 'jof seat. The an- I "raw a Ime from X to W and sha])e outside of fore- 

kle averages 1 ' _> inches less than '4 of seat. The part troni 1' through Z, Y to X. 

measures of the regular trousers are as f(jllows: I? to U is '4 knee and 1\ to \' is '4 hottom. 

T->- n, • w ■ I ?; L' to I is '4 inch. 

Rise yij \\ aist vi -* 

T ^^ Seat ii^ *^ "' ""' ^ '''^ from U to T and shape inseam of fore- 
part friini T througli, S up to J. 

TO nR,^FT. When V is taken out at knee the forepart will swing 

Si|uare out and down from A. in so that point R will lay on point 3. 
A to B is rise. 

11 ^ <■ • , f 1 ; w ■ I 1 THE l!.\CKrART. 

B to C IS ' _. of leg ( U) mches). 

From C to 1) is 4 inches. Points 10 and 11 are ' _. inch out from S and 7. 

C" t(.i R is '4 of leg (S inches). These hreeches come .Apply knee measure from X to V. place this at 10 and 

only to just helow the calf. come hack to 14 one-half of small of knee jilus 1 

If for full length to the ;inkle go down from C to K 12 inch. 

inches. -^I'l''.^' nieasure o\cr the calf and .add 1 inch. 

C to V is .T inches, ."^(luare lines B, Y. C. D and F. Apply hottom measure from \' to \\ . place this at 12. 

B to I' is ' _. and 1' to d is 's seat. .and come out the nieasure plus 1 inch for V.. 

II is halfway hetween B and (i. Cul out ■'>4 inch \' in l)ackpart as from Q to l?. 

S(|uare up from H for 19-20. j to 1() is 1-12 seat and 16 to 34 is '^4 inch. 

B to L is .'i4 inch. Ray cijrner of square at i) and arm 1') to 2'' is 3i . inches. Hraw seat line from 18 to 20. 

of si|uarc on jioint R, and with S(juare in this posi- 20 to 2H is 1'.. inches. 

tion S(iuare up lines K and l'\ Z t(i 24 is 2^ j and V to 2? is 3 inches. 

Square hack from 1 1 for N. " -^1']''.^ waist measure from ( ) to P. place this at 28. 

N to P is ; _. inch and R to Z is 1 inch. cimie out to 2.^ one-half of waist and 2'_. inches. 

18 is l4 seat up from K. J is .>,s inch from G. 24 to 2.> is '4 inch more than Z to P. 

(.) to P is '4 of waist measure. 21 to 22 is 1 inch \' taken out. 

Points X and 10 are '4 inch helow knee line C, S. .\dd 1 inch waist band. 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlatk'e Tronser System 



35 



PLATE XXII. 




36 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouscr System 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIIL 



RIDING BREECHES. 



The accompanying draft is a regular pair of Kiding 
Breeches with whicli hoots, puttie leggings or cloth 
leggings may he worn. With this diagram we gi\e a 
method of cutting the cloth leggings. The draft is 
made from the following measures: 

Rise 9^2 Small of leg helow 

Full length of leg. ..32 knee 14 

Waist ...34 Lalf U-m 

Seat 39 Ankle 9 

TO DRAFT. 
THE FOKI!I',\KT. 

Square out and down from .A. 

A to H is rise, 9'/2 inches. 

B to C is <)ne-lialf of leg, 16 inches. 

C tij 1) is 12 inches, making the distance from B to D 
2S inches (or less 's of full leg length). 

C to \5 is 4' _. inches. C to ,^ is .^ inches. 

Square lines B, C, D and 3 and 15. 

B to F is 1 J seat, and F to F is 'k seat. 

(1 is halfway hetween B and F. 

(i III 1 I is 2 inches. It ma\-. howc\ er, he more, ac- 
cording to the spread of legs of the rider when in 
the saddle. 

Square down from H for center line. 

I to M and I to N is '4 small of leg measure. 

J to U and J to .S is '4 of calf measure, 

K to U and K to T is '4 of ankle measure. 

M to < ) is 1 I4 inches. 

Draw inside line from 2 to 0. 

F t(j 1 and F to 2 is 4-g inch. 

F to W is '2 inch. 

Shape foreiiart from P round in to M. 

-^ to Q is 1 1 J inches and B to 7 is 1 ' 2 inches. 

Shape forepart from 7 through Q into N as shown hy 
dotted line. 

B to V is ;/ inch, lay corner of square at F. let arm 



rest on \', square u]i from V. and W, lay corner of 
square at X and sc|uare hack through Z for Y, raise 
forepart ■'« inch at Y. 

X to Y is '2 of waist. 

Point 24 is 's seat up from W. 

THE BACKPART. 

Lay forepart on ])ai.)er and line ofif as usual. 

Z to 20 is 4 inches and 20 to 21 is 1 ' s inches. 

1 to 2.^ is '2 inch more than 1-12 seat. 

M to 9 and N to C is ' 2 inch. 

R to 10 and S to L"; is 1 2 inch. 

K til 12 and 13 is > 1 inch each way. 

Take a \' out in the hackpart. 

12 to 11 and 13 In 14 is 3 inches each way or enough 
width at ankle plus seams. 

7 to IS is 2' J inches. 

IS to 19 is '4 inch mure than 7 to Y. 

Apply waist from -X to \'. Place this at 20 and come 
out to 19, half of w.iist plus 2' j inches 

19 to 23 is |„ waist. 

23 to 22 is ■>4 inch. 

The waist hand is 1 '4 inches high. 

2S is ''4 inch up from M. 

2S to 27 is I 4 inch. 

I to 29 is '4 inch and '4 inch is taken out at 16. 

The forepart nnist he held in as from (J to N and P to 
M so as to form ,1 knee. 

NiiTE. — In cirder In ha\'e the opening run to the front 
of leg cut III! the fiirepart as fmni 3 to 4, which is 1 
inch hack fnim the center line, then shape oft the 
outside as from (> through ,^ and 3.^ to 3. What- 
ever has heen cut off from the forepart as from Q 
to -T, N to 3 and T tn 4, add this same amount on to 
the hackpart as fnim C to 31, 13 to 32 and 14 to 33. 
To this add a huttim st.and as from 31 to 33. 

The reinforcements on the inside of the leg should be 
shajied so that the forepart from the knee up gets 
a pear shape. 



Stone's .Idvanccd 
Superlative Trouser System 



37 



PLATE XXIII. 




EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIV. 
LEGGINGS. 

The legging is drafted liy laying front an<l backjiart 

together as per dotted lines on leggings. 
There are seven buttonholes and buttons on the leg 

gings. 
Draw a line on the center of l)acl<i)art anil make a 

seam on the legging as per line B, 1'-. I"'. 
Cut out at H whatever the distance is Ijetween the fore- 

])art and backjjart at A. 
The width of the leggings is to Ije ' .. inch more than 

the leg. A, P., C and D. 
\i to 11 and E to (i is ' j inch, and ' .. inch is taken out 

at F. 
(] to L is the same as H to 1). and H to N is the same 

as B to C. 
.\ button stand is left on the outside of both the leg 

and the legging, 
h'or length of legging ap])ly the inside length of leg and 

add 1 inch to regular measure. 
The leggings are fastened on to the leg by a buttonhole 

in the seam of the legging ' _> inch below B. and a 

small buttcinliole tal.) is sewed on to the legging so 

that it buttons on to the end button on the outside of 

the leg. 
The l.)ottom of the leggings have straps sewed on t i 

the legging on the inside and buttoned or buckle 1 

on to the outside of legging. 

PLATE XXIV. 



'^^J\?J■^^'iy^Qy') -'jr^v^v^ 




38 



Stone's Adz'anccd 
Supivlatiz'c TroHSCV Sxstcin 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXV. 



RIDING BREECHES. 



The legs of these hreeches e-xtend ddwn tu the 
ankle, and riding hoots are usually worn with this 
particular style of hreeches. The inside of the legs 
are reinforced with the same cloth, and tiie lower part 
of legs are cut off antl finished with a lighter weight 
material. 

Note. — These breeches are cut on a straight center 
line, as some clients want the hreeches to fit well oft" 
the horse as well as in the saddle. For comfortable 
riding breeches swing center of knee out the same as 
gi\en in the preceding diagram of breeches. 

Tiie draft is [iroduced from the following measures: 

Rise of waist 9^2 Knee 17 

Inseam i2> ' Small of leg below 



Waist 
Seat . 



.34 knee 13' .. 

.38 Calf 14 

Ankle 9'1 



?-fourth of seat meas- 
if leg ( 14' J inches). 



Square out and down from .\. 
A. to i; is 9' J inches rise ( oi 

ure ) . 
I) to C is 2 inches less thari ' _• 
C to D is 4 inches. 
B to F is 3' J inches less than inscani, and F to E is () 

inches. 
.Square lines B, C, D and V . 
P) t(i M is I J seat an<l 1 1 to I is \i seat. 

1 is halfway between 1! and I. 
F to (J is the same as *B to J. 
Draw center line through J and O. 

1 1 to -^ is 'j inch, and I to 3 and I to 4 is -^s inch. 
Lower waist in front ' _> inch from ( i to 2 and raise 
side at hips as fri;m W to 1, 'S inch. 

2 to I is I J waist. 
B to V is ;V4 inch. 

.\p])ly knee measure '4 of knee each way from K tn L' 
and K to T ( 17 on fourths). 

M to S and M to R is '4 small of knee each way ( 14 
on fourths ) . 

The width of the waist-band, which in this case is 
added to the breeches, is 1 ' _, inches 

In order to get the outside seam to nm towards the 
middle of leg in front, reduce the forepart as from 
T to (), R to 7 and P to X. 

The e.xact amount to Ije cut off from the forepart 
varies a little according to size of leg, as well as to 
style and fancy, and whate\er is taken off' from fore- 
part must be added to the backpart. 



The rcnifi)rcement on inside of leg extends forward 
towards knee and is cut so as to give the forepart a 
imitorm tapering sh.apc. dhe oiiening on outside 
1 begins at point 7. The buttons are spaced 1J4 
inches apart. 



THE BACKr.-\RT. 



the 



Cut out fore])art and ])lace it on drafting paper, 
shaded purtiim being the forepart. 

3 to 2i is 1-12 .seat. 

L' to 22 is ' J inch. 

S to 21 is -^4 inch. 

.\l.)ply the knee measure, 17 inches, from U to 6, place 
this at 21 and measure out to 16, 18 inches. 

.\p|)ly small i:)f knee from S to 7, place this at 2L 
measiu^e across to 1.^, small of knee measure and 1 
inch added. 

The calf measure is ne.Kt applied froiu Q to S and 13 
to 14: to this add 1 inch. Xe.xt apply the ankle 
measure from 30 to 29. place this at 1 '. measure 
b:ick to 2S anil add 1 inch for seams. 

The opening extends to 7 ,ind the first button is 1 '4 
inches down from 7. Fiy first locating the inside 
seam of b:ickp:irt it is an easy m:itter to get the out- 
side seinii, as whate\er has been cut oft' from the 
fore])art will lie .iilded to the backpart, which the 
measure will call for. 

The backpart is cut '4 inch shorter from the knee 
line (hiwn. The forepart is to be held in at i)oints 
U and U. ;in(l the liackpart stretched from 1.^ to 16 
and 21 to 22. .\ button staml is left on the outside 
of the ])ackp;irt as at 14 and 1.^. 

1. to 24 is 2 inches, and 24 to X is 4 inches. 

X to Y is 1 I _. inches. 

Sweep out from W to 20 by C. 

.\pply waist measure from 2 to 1, place this at Y and 
me:isure back to 20, half of waist measure and 254 
inches for seams and a \'. 

25 to 2u is 1 inch. 

The width of waist-band is 1'.. inches: the inside re- 
inforcement extend from halfway between the 
crotch and knee .and is stretched onto the fore|)art 
;is indicated by dotte<l lines. 

Di''gr:'.ni C represents the reinforcements, and Dia- 
gr m 1! represents the leg finished. 

I he Iov>er portions or contiiniation of the legs as fnim 
F to V, are in this case cut separate and from a 
ligliter weight material so as to make this part more 
pliable, easier on the leg of the wearer. 



Stone's Adzwicrd 
Supciiatkr Trouser System 



39 



PLATE XXV. 




40 



Stone's Advanced 
Supcvlativc Troiiscr Sxsfcin 



PLATE XXVI. 




Stone's Jdz'anccd 
Siiperlatk'C Troiiscr System 



ATTITUDES. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXVI. 

In cutting trousers as well as coats, the attitude of 
the client must l>e taken into consideration, hence I 
here present Plate XX\'I. The middle figure marked A 
B, C. represents the normal figure where the center of 
gravity runs through the middle of the figure line A. 
B, C, and trousers cut and made up regularly will fit 
correctly and in this case we use shaper A for the 
shape of the legs. Keep front straight from A, 
through C to knee, slirink forejiart back '4 inch as 
from K to L and bring it out ' _. inch beyond point 
B at bottom. Shrink in well in ham, point F, and 
bring out calf just a little at point R with not too 
mttch round from E to D. 

In the figure to the right we ha\e the erect form, his 
head and shoulders are erect, hence to counterljalance 
himself the lower portion of his body assumes a back- 
ward attitude as per solid lines S, 4. 3 and 9. 
Use shaper B for this form. This client 
stands erect, but has a large protruding seat 
and trousers are ajn to get too long in front opposite 
end of flv. PVess in forepart so it will come back ^ 
inch at point C-J and 1 inch at K-1,. from a straiglit 
line and let forepait o\errun 1 inch at point B. Shape 
the backpart so it will conic up to ami lit into the seams 
of the forepart before sewing the seams. Press in 
well in the hams aliove (loint V. shape out calf well at 
point E with not too much round or length between E 
and D. 

The figure to the left is for the stooped form with a 
flat seat line 12-\", and T is the normal, line U and S 
is the forward attitude. Use shaper C for this form. 
Note. — This client has flat seat with a forward at- 
titude, forepart usually gets short in center in front 
opposite seat line and strikes hard on to the leg in 
front and the pantaloon strikes hard on to the back of 
the calf and leg draws from front of thigh to back of 
calf as shown on the shaper. Use shaper C before 
sewing up the seams, shape front and back to conform 
to the shaper, stretch forepart in center and slirink in 
the side so that center of fore[)art at waist will come 
back at least one inch from .V to J, from a straight 
line, and strike the line at C, then come back at least 
^ inch as from K to L and spring out 1 inch over 
straight line B at bottom, .\fter the forepart is 
shaped correctly, shape the backpart so it will conform 
to the front. The backpart has to be shrunk in well 
at point F and shoved back over the calf at point E. 
then forward at D. It will be necessary to stretch the 
outside and inside of the backparts about ,'-4 to }i inch 
from about 2 inches below the seat line to the knee 
notch, then shrink in the same amount over the calf on 
the outside and inside seams. The knee notches on 
the backpart will move down from '4 to -'s inch, so 
as to give length at E and shortness at F to prevent 
the draw from C to E. 




42 



Stone's Advanced 
Siipcrlati7't' Troiisrr Svstcui 





siiAPERS. the legs, and some of our most noted trouser cutters 

In order to iiroduce good fitting trousers for all use sha]iers, Lut a set f(.>r each trouser maker and 

sliaiies and forms, the cutter must use e\erv precau- mark on the work ticket shape legs like shape A, B or 

tion in the making as well as in the cutting, for the C". If the cutter takes this precaution he will be sure 

legs of the various clients are not all the same shape, to obtain satisfactory results. Mere are the shapers 

hence a whole lot lays in the making and shaping of for you to work from. 



Stone's Adi'aiiccd 
Suf^rrlatk'c Troiiscr System 



43 



VARIATIONS. 



Cutters as a rule pav less attention tn the various trousers system on eartii, tiiat produces a good fitting 
shaped legs of their clients tlian they do to the ui)per garment for the ordinary l)uilt man, but unless you 



part of the body. The cutter will note \ery carefull\' 
the shape of his client's shoulders, blades, neck and 
chest, yes, even the attitude of his customer, and the 
cutter will produce a most eleguU fitting coat, liut 
when it comes to the trousers he invariably fails in 
producing a well balanced pair of trousers that will fit 
and hang smoothly in the legs fur all shapes and forms. 
If the cutter would pay a little more attention to the 
shape of the seat and legs it would cnalile him to make 



have learned all the \ariations for all the various 
shapes and forms, you cannot produce satisfactory 
results. 

I*~ig. 2. The shapes of the liody and legs are exactly 
the same as on Fig. No. 1, with the only exception that 
the feet toe out and" you have overlooked this particu- 
lar v;iriation in the formation of the pedal extremities. 

Here I present Fig. No. 3, which is that of a man 
whose legs are open and the feet turn in. Look at the 



the needed changes from the normal to the abnormal three illustrations and you will at once be convinced 



shai)es. I will here present three illustrations of 
trousers. 

Figure 1 is that of a m;ui with a pair of straight and 
well shaped legs. Trousers cut by anyone in the or- 
dinary way will produce a fit liecause the shajie of tlie 
body and the legs is perfect and here is where the cut- 
ter will congratulate himself on having the \'erv best 



that although they all measure the same in both length 
and width, the same cut and made trousers will not fit 
all three different forms. 

Trousers cut regularly will fit the regularly built 
man as shown on I'ig. 1, but next we have Fig. 2, 
which measures the same in l.ioth length and width as 
h^ig. 1, the only difierence being that the formation of 





44 



Stone's .'Idz'anced 
Sii/'erhith'e Troiiscr System 




tlic Ixjiic structure of liie k'L;s lia\ c an (iut\var<l turn 
sii that the feet turn out rnul the fit^ure is called "toe 
out." I low much he toes out from the orilinar\' hj,'ure 
must he iletermined hy the cutter anil a notatiim made 
of it when the measure is taken. If the cutter is care- 
less and cuts the trousers the regular way as for I'^ig. 
1, they will look as shown un iMg. 2. 

I will now |iroceed to change the regular draft for 
{■"ig. 2 and sIkjw Imw tu change the pattern sn that the 
triiusers will toe out. Lay fi)re|iart and hack tngether 
s(i that the seam will meet as per sdhd lines as shdwn 
li_\' I )iagram 2. I'he center or crease line will 
run on forepart as from A to I) and on hack|iart 
as from IS to K. We now take the trousers and crease 
the legs out at the bottom so that the crease will fall 
on the middle of the instep. W hen this is done the 
outside seam will come too far lo the front, so if our 
client toes out say 1 inch, I adil to forepart 1 incli as 



from 5 to d running out to nothing at point 7 and take 
ott forepart as fnun S to 9 running out to nothing at 
points 10 and 1 1. Then cut oli the backpart what has 
been added to the forepart as from 3 to 6 and add to 
the backpart from 12 to 1,> what has been cut off the 
backpart from .^ t(i (>. The scilid lines show the regu- 
late pattern and the broken lines the changed pattern. 
The crease has been turned out at the bottom to follow 
the foot and the seams changed to go with the crease. 
( )n drafts ,\ I show how to change the pattern from 
the regular to the flat seated and oiien thigh figure — 
"forward attitude." as shown in Figure ,i The 
solid lines represent the regular pattern and the 
broken lines the changed pattern. The fore- 
part: Take (iff ' | inch as from (i to 1 and add 
■4 inch as from II t(j 2. Add 's ;it J and ' _> inch at 
C and 5-^ as from I. to 3. Take oft 5-^ inch as from 
K to 4 and take off '.s inch at ])oint B. The broken 
lines show the ch.anges for the forepart — the soliil 
lines represent the regular back[)art. Take ol'f 
■'4 inch as from .S to .^ and R to 6 and add this same 
amount as from X to X. Take off -^s inch as from W 
to 10 and add same amount as from \' to 9. Lower 
the back ' _. inch as from T to 7. In the flat seated fig- 
ure the distance frcim center line (J to R is less, so that 
is the reason why I recede with the seat as from R to 

and add same .amount tc> the outside as from X to 
S. I-5v reducing the forepart as from S to 3 and R to 
'i the crease line has been mo\ ed out as from Y to Z 
and the crease line on fore]>art has been mined over 
as from A to M. 

Having described the changes for the flat seated fig- 
ure, I will now gi\e the changes from the normal to 
the figure with a prominent seat, which is the most 
easy figure of all to fit, see diagram 4. The forepart 
will in this case remain the same as for the normal 
figure. The backpart is changed as |ier broken lines. 
The distance from center line C to prominent part of 
seat is more than on the normal figure, therefore, go 
out from V to 2 and (i to 3 from 'j to 1 inch accord- 
ing to the prominence of the seat and reduce the same 
amount as from K to 4 on the side of the backpart. 
In this case I raise the backpart '^ inch as from LI to 
L Thus by noting the sha]>e of the form we can use 
a common sense method of changing the pattern so 
th.at it will fit .and cuiiform to the shape of our client's 
bod\'. Then if the cutter will write these peculiarities 
of the form on the work ticket, the journeyman will 

1 e able to make the garment to fit and conform to the 
figure it is intended for. 

h'or l'"ig. 1 use shaper A. 
I'or h'ig. 4 use shaper B. 
l"or I-'ig. ,1 use shaper C. 



Stone's Advanced 
Snpeiiativc Tronser System 



45 



lOi 



8 



c 



171 



2 



46 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouser System 




Stone's Advanced 
Supciiative Trouser System 



47 




Stone's A(h'(.iiici'd 
Siif^i-iiatkr Trouscr System 



BOW-LEG CHANGE. 

The heavy hhack lines iVprcsent the reguhir or nor- from crotch <lo\vn 1-lfi of seat measure at hottom, as 

nial trouser pattern, the hroken lines the bow-leg from 1 to J. keeping L" and I), (i to K and F to 1, is 

change. The re(|uirements of a bow-leg figure are a l-ld seat. M to L is '4 \nd\ longer for every inch 

short inseani, compared with the outside length, tlie bow. in this case > | of an inch. 

placing of the seams so that the crease will be in the .^wing regular i):ittern o\ er and reshape as per broken 
center of the leg. To do this the trousers must be lines. 

pressed in two sections. I'^irst from the top to the II to < ) and K to N is same amount, 01- whatever dis- 
knee, keeping the inseam from the crotch, .^ inches tance caused by swinging forepart back 1-16 of seat 

down short, next press from the knee down, keeping at bdttom. This completes forepart change. Keep 

the trousers short at the ankle ."^ inches up. It is to nnrnial notches, 

be remembered that the trousers are not to be shrunk 
or stretcheil until the tailor has basted legs U|) and 

, . . ,, ■ 1 ■ 1 .1 Dl.MiR.WI 2. I).\CKI'.\kT. 

down, then sew m the same manner ni which they 

were basted, -\fter lesjs are finished, anil the trousers ,, 1 1 1 1 ■ 1 .. -1-1 r u 

. . ^ . . Ile:i\\' black line is normal pattern. I lie full amount 

are ready to join, press the desired shape, but not until r , ' , , ^i 1 1 » \' 1 ^ r 

•' J ' ' of b(]\v IS pilaced mi the back])art. Normal center hue 

then. -1 , , 

IS line J-,1. 

TA 1 T- -^ t" ^' is 3 inches, full amount of Ijow. 

Di.\(;k.\m 1. I-(iKi-:r.\RT. 

L til .\ and \ to Z is .1 inches., full amount of liow, 

(Client llemg ,1 Inches I!ow-legs), w . 1. 1 c . -r ■ ^ 11 ■ ■ 

- W to K and .S to I is amount caused bv swinging 

Hea\v black line is normal p litern. l.engtben in- backpart over at bottom ,1 inches. 

seam and shorten outside b\ swinging forepart T to Z is ' _. inch longer than from S to V. 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouser System 



49 




50 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouser SystcDi 



PEG-TOP CHANGE. 



Peg-top trousers should fit smooth anjuml waist ami 
seat. The drapery for peg-tops sIkiuIiI be gracefully 
draped on the outside seam from the hip to nothing at 
the bottom. What are the requirements for peg-top 
trousers? First, an easy stride, so as not to draw hip 
drapery into the seat and stride. The stride must be 
sufficiently long to permit the drai)ery to remain at the 
sides. Secondly, a short inseani and a lung (lutside 
seam must be had. Thirdly, a short backpart, so as 
to take out any bagging or falling <ln\vn of the seat, 
which is anything but graceful. 

Dl.'\GR.'\M 3. Fi)REP.\RT. 

The hea\y black lines represent the regular pattern 
to be changed. The dash lines represent the change. 
Straighten the inseam by swinging forepart over as 
from H to M, and G to L ^4 of an inch, keeping crotch 
jioint C. F, to J is amount gained by swinging over 
inseam line. 

D to I is 1 inch, or whatever amount of drapery for 
peg is desired. < )ne inch makes a good average peg- 
top. Draw a straight line from M to I. 
Shape outside seam from B to I. F to K is ' , inch 
down to M. This completes change of forepart. 



l)|A<a<,\M 4. B,\CKPART. 

The changes on the backpart are as follows : 
Straighten inseam as from 5 to 4 and 2 to 3, -)4 inch, 

same amount as you straighten forepart. 
\' to W is ' 2 inch. 
X to Z is I _. inch. 
.Shape inseam from W to Z to 3. 
T to U is I J inch. 

.Straighten seat by going out '4 inch, as from N to Q. 
Shaping from waist jxiint to U 'j inch and advancing 

waist line, as from N to O "4 inch, this straightens 

seat '4 inch, thereby making a short backpart. 
Y to I is ' J inch. R to .S is 1 inch. 
( ) to P is '4 inch, same amount as you adxance from 

N to Q. 
Shape from P to .S to I down to 4. 
This completes change for peg-top trousers. 
Points 6, 7, S and 9 represent outlets on backpart. The 

reason for this iIlustr;ition is that many cutters, 

afraid tli.at the trousers won't fit, leave tremendous 

outlets in seat and crotch. 
6 to S is 3 inches. 
■}-4 inch is alloweil .'it •' and .':j inch is allowed at 6 and 

7. 
Taper your outlet from 9 down to nothing at 8. 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Trouser System 



51 




52 



Stone's Advanced 
Superlative Troiiscr System 



STONE'S RELIABLE BLOCK PATTERNS. 



These patterns are strictl)- up-tu 
which we Inave l)een using for years, 
country. 



(late in style and outline. 
( )ur patterns are used 1; 



They are tested patterns, the principles of 
■ the hest tailors and clothiers all over the 



P.\TTF,KNS For Men's ( "i.XKM RNTS. 

S. B. Frock Coat. Each $1.2.^ Sizes 34 

S. B. Sack Coat. Each 1 .00 

D. B. Sack Coat. Each 100 

D. B. Frock Coat. Each 1 .30 

Dress Coat. Each 1 -^O 

S. B. Overcoat. Each 1-30 

D. B. ( )vercoat. Each 1 -SO 



Yoked ( )vercoat. Each.... 
Raglan ( )vercoat. Each. . . . 

Kimono Coats. Each 

Inverness Overcoats. Each. 
Paletots, Paddocks. Each.. 

S. B. Vest. Each 

Dress "V^est. Each 

D. B. Vest. Each 

Trousers. Each 



2.00 

2.00 

2.50 

2.00 

2.00 

.75 

.75 

.75 

.75 









Block T 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


I'UII 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


I'uU 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Inill 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Inill 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


34 


to 


43. 


Full 


Sizes 


30 


to 


42. 


Full 



ATTERNs In Sets. 



set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 
set. 



.$10.00 

. 10.00 

. 10.00 

. 12.00 

. 12.00 

. 13.00 

. 13.00 

. 16.00 

. 16.00 

. 18.00 

. 16.00 

. 16.00 

. 7.00 

. 8.00 

. 8.00 

. 9.00 



Clerical Coats. Each l-?0 

Knights Templar Coats. Each 1-50 

Hoods. Each 

Capes. Each 

Convertilile Collars. Each. . 

Riding Breeches. Each 

Riding Leggings. Each 

Bicycle Pants, Plain. Ivach 
Bicycle Pants. Cuff 



Each. 



50 
1.00 

..^0 
1.50 

.75 

.75 
1.00 



Required Measurements. 
Breast measure taken from the l)ack close up under 
the arms, just so tape slips around the body, not 

tight. 

Note.— Take breast measure the same always, and 
if loose fit is desired, mention it. 

Waist measure taken around natural waist line m 
the same manner as the breast. If a loose lit is de- 
sired, don't alter the measure or metliod. but mention 
the fact. 

Seat measure taken over the prominent part of the 
seat, in the same manner as the breast and waist meas- 
ures are taken. 

Natural waist length, fashionable waist length, seat 
length, full length of garment, and sleeve length. 

\'est and trouser measures in the regular manner. 

Send either the short or long measures as follows, 
or both if desired. 



Cutters' Comhination Set of Patterns. 

S. B. Frock Coat, size 34 to 43 

D. B. Frock Coat, size 34 to 43 

S. B. Sack Coat, size 34 to 43 

S. B. ( )vercoat. size 34 to 43 

S. B. Vest, size 34 to 43 

Trousers, size ( waist ) 30 to 42 

Coml)iiiation Im-ouIs for D. B. Sack Coat $40.00 

Coml)inatiiin iM-onts for D. B. Overcoats 40.00 

Combination Fronts for D. B. Ve.sts 40.00 

Price, $40.00 

S. B. Frock Coat, size 34 to 43 

S. B. Sack Coat, size 34 to 43 

S. B. \'est, size 34 to 43 

Price, $20.00. 



Shoulder Measures. 
Strap, upper shoulder. 
Lower shoulder, back 

width. 



Short Measures. 
Depth of scye. strap, 
< )ver shoulder, closing. 
Blade, arm scye circum 

ference. 

Or Any Other Proof Measures. 

For all garments always give height, collar size, and 
a clear description of customer. Descriptive dispro- 
portions, degres of deformation, ( such as taught by 
the Chicago College of Garment Cutting, is perfection 
personified). .\lways give degrees of stoo|), erect, 
slope or scjuare long or short neck, one shoulder low, 
etc. 

For < )vercoats. — Always mention whether the meas- 
ures are taken over the vest or o\er the under coat. 
If no mention is made as to how the measures are 
taken, it is presumed the measures are taken over the 
vest. 



Stone's Advanced 
Stipcrlatk'e Trouser System 



PATTERNS FOR LADIES' GARMENTS. 



Basque, bust. Each $1.00 

Jackets, bust. Each 1 .00 

D. B. Reefer, bust. Each 1.00 

Cutaway Coat, bust. Each 1 .00 

D. B. Frock, bust. Each 1.23 

D. B. Ulster, bust. Each 1.23 

D. B. Vest, bust. Each 30 

Costume Skirt. Each 73 

Riding Skirt. Each 1.30 

Divided Riding Skirt. Each 1.30 

Bicycle Skirt. Each 73 

Riding Breeches. Each 7}< 

Leggings. Each 23 

Golf Capes, bust. Each 73 

Double Capes, bust. Each 1.00 

Single Sleeves. Each 30 



.'^izes 32 to 42 
Sizes 32 to 42 
Sizes il to 42, 
Sizes 32 to 42, 
Sizes 2t2 to 42, 
Sizes 32 to 42 
Sizes 32 to 42 
Waist 20 to i2 
Waist 20 to i2 
Waist 20 to i2 
Waist 20 to ^2 



Full set $10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 12.00 

Full set 12.00 

Full set 3.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 10.00 

Full set 7.30 

Full set 7.30 



.All these patterns are cut to order, single or in sets, 
at regular prices. 



All special patterns according to measures are cut 
from drafting Manila paper only, and at prices quoted 
in the first column of this price list. Light weight 
Manila patterns furnished only in regular sizes. 

All orders for patterns must be accompanied by 
cash remittance of at least 50 per cent of the amount 
ordered to receive attention. All orders executed pro 
mptly. 



SPECIAL PATTERNS CUT TO MEASURE. 



Me-^iSUREMENTS. 

Length of waist and full length of garment; the 
under-arm length from arm scye to small of waist ; the 
front length from center of back at neck to largest 
part of bust and down to waist in front. Length of 
sleeve should be taken with a square under the arm to 
wrist. Take the size of sleeve at elbow and at hand. 
Take bust measure easy and waist snug, and hip easy. 
If the garment is to button up to the neck, the size of 
the neck must be given. For skirts, take front, side 
and back lengths and waist, also hip measure. In 
ordering skirt patterns, state what width goods is to 
be used, as the gores must be cut accordingly. 



THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

Security Bldg., Chicago, 111. 



54 Stone's Advanced 

Superlative Trouser System 



A VALUABLE ASSET 

and ESSENTIAL PART OF 
AN EFFICIENT EQUIPMENT 



PUBLICATIONS 

Stone's Scientific System of Grading. 

In book form $10.00 

Grading Tools 5.00 

Stone's Anatomical Divisions of the Human Form and 
Form Growth from Birth to Manhood and Womanhood. 

In book form 10.00 

Stone's Advanced Coat and Vest System. 

In book form 10.00 

Stone's Advanced Trouser System. 

In book form 7.00 

Stone's System of Cutting Ladies' (Garments. 

In book form 10.00 

Stone's Shirt and Drawer System. 

In book form 3.00 



The Practical Cutter and Tailor. 

Chuck full of Practical Methods in Cutting, published monthly. 

Per year $3.00 



Address all orders and send remittances to 

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

SECURITY BUILDING CHICAGO, ILL. 



Stone's Advanced 
Supciiath'c Tronscr System 



55 




ii2£;iJ::T T I^ N G ^ • S C 1 1;, fiO Lilif 








CHICAGO, 

TERMS FOR INSTRUCTION 

TO BE PAID IN ADVANCF 

MEN'S GARMENTS 

Preliminary course in drafting by proportions from heiglits 
and widths : 

Coats alone $ 30.00 

Vests alone 20.00 

Trousers alone 20.00 

Coats, Vests and Trousers together 50.00 

Advanced course in drafting coats and vests hy shoulder 
measure method : 

Coats alone $ 30.00 

Vests alone 20.00 

Trousers by actual measure 20.00 

Coals. Vests a.id Trousers together 50.00 

Ad\anced course in drafting coats, vests and trousers by the 
short measure method : 

Costs alone $ 30.00 

Vests alone 20.00 

Trousers by actual measure 20.00 

Coats. V<-t9 and Trousers together 50.00 

Mixed courses : Proportions, shoulder measure and short 
measure methods combined : 

Coats alone $ 50.00 

Cca;s and Vests together 75.00 

Coats, Vests and Trousers 100.00 

How to Apply Individuality in Cutting 25.00 

How to Make up Garments $15 to 25.00 

Practical Course : Laying patterns on the cloth, cutting 

the goods, trimming up of garments and trving on.... 50.00 

Shirts '. 25.00 

Drawers 15.00 

Overalls 15 00 

Jumpers 20.00 

Canvas Coats 25.00 

Hunting Coats 25.00 

Military Garments 50.00 

Capes, Hoods. Leggins and Gaiters 50.00 

Riding Breeches 25.00 

Shifting Block Patterns, short course 25.00 

Shifting Block Patterns, full course 50.00 

Spacing 25.00 

Grading 50.00 

Anatomical divisions and heights and widths 50.00 

Form Growth for Sizing Patterns 50.00 

Copying Garments 25.00 

Laying Patterns and Marking on Cloth 50.00 

Special mixed courses at special prices. 



I L L I IN O I S 

LADIES' GARMENTS 

Preliminary Course: Proportionate Method, drafting from 
heights and widths : 

Dress Waists $ 15.00 

Shirt Waists 15.00 

Blouses 15.00 

Jackets 15.00 

Box Coats 15.00 

Capes 10.00 

Skirts 15,00 

Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts 

together 50.00 

Advanced Courses: Drafting by proportion and actual meas- 
ure methods: 

Dress Waists $ 25.00 

Shirt Waists 25,00 

Blouses 25,00 

Jackets , 25,00 

Box Coats 25.00 

Capes 15.00 

Skirts by actual measure 25.00 

Dress Waists, Blouses, Jackets, Coats, Capes and Skirts 

together 50.00 

RIDING HABITS 

Jackets $ 25.00 

Side Saddle Riding Skirts 25.00 

Divided Skirts 15.00 

Riding Breeches 25.00 

Gaiters and Leggins 15.00 

Caps 10.00 

UNDERWEAR 

Night Robes $ 25.00 

Chemises 25.00 

Drawers 20.00 

Corset Covers 20 00 

Under Skirts 15.00 

Drop Skirts 15.00 

Spacing 25.00 

Grading 50.00 

Anatomical divisions of heights and widths 50.00 

Form Growth for Sizing Patterns 50.00 

Copying Garments 25.00 

Special mixed courses at special prices. 

FUR GARMENTS 

Drafting by proportion from heights and widths: 

Jackets and Coats $ 30.00 

Capes and Collarettes 25.00 

Jackets. Coats, Capes and Collarettes together 50.00 



22 1913 



